New Pipe for Vermeer and Ditch Witch Drill Rigs

Volume discounts available. Pipe for other makes and models are available. Please call for details, pricing and availability.

Read our Nine Tips on extending the life of your drill stem.

100% OEM Compatible Drill Stems Version I and II

Rig Description Weight
D 6x6 1.315" (0.179W) x 6', HIWS1 18 lbs
D 7x11 1.66" (0.191W) x 6' x HIWS1 26 lbs
D 10x15 1.66" (0.191W) x 10' x HIWS1 38 lbs
D 16x20 1.90" (0.240W) x 10' x HIWS1 55 lbs
D 18x22 1.90" (0.240W) x 10' x HIWS1 55 lbs
D 24x26 2.063" (0.260W) x 10' x HIWS1 62 lbs
D 24x40 2.375" (0.254W) x 10' x HIWS1 73 lbs
D 40x40 2.375" (0.295W) x 15' x HIWS1 112 lbs
D 50x100 2.875" (0.392W) x 15' HIWS1 180 lbs
D 80x100 2.875" (0.392W) x 15' HIWS1 180 lbs
D 80x100 3.500" (0.449W) x 15' x HIWS1 250 lbs
D 24x33 2.063" (0.260W) x 10' x HIWS2 63 lbs
D 33x44 2.375" (0.295W) x 10' x HIWS2 81 lbs
D 33x44 2.375" (0.295W) x 15' x HIWS2 115lbs
D 36x50 2.625" Flush (0.400W) x 15' x HIWS2 160 lbs
D 55x100 2.875" (0.440W) x 15' x HIWS2 198 lbs
D 100x120 3.500" (0.449W) x 20' x HIWS2 327 lbs
Case 6010 2.063" (0.260W) x 10' x HIWSH 61 lbs
Case 6030 2.675" (0.254W) x 10' x HIWSH 73 lbs

Ditch Witch Compatible Pipe

Model # Pipe Body O.D. O.A.L. (S/S) Tool Joint O.D. Tool Joint I.D. Weight
JT 920 1.660" +/-0.031" 78.75" +/-0.250" 2.000" 0.375" 29 lbs
JT 920 L 1.660" +/-0.031" 118.11" +/-0.250" 2.000" 0.375" 39 lbs
JT 1220 1.660" +/-0.031" 118.11" +/-0.250" 2.000" 0.375" 39 lbs
JT 1720 2.063" +/-0.031" 118.11" +/-0.250" 2.500" 0.625" 59 lbs
JT 2020 2.063" +/-0.031" 118.11" +/-0.250" 2.500" 0.625" 59 lbs
JT 2720 2.375" +/-0.031" 118.11 +/-0.250" 2.750" 0.750" 78 lbs
JT 2720 M1 2.375" +/-0.031" 118.11 +/-0.250" 2.750" 0.750" 78 lbs
JT 4020v 2.875" +/-0.031" 177.2" +/-0.250" 3.250" 1.125" 176 lbs
JT 4020 M1 2.875" +/-0.031" 177.2" +/-0.250" 3.250" 1.125" 176 lbs
JT 7020 3.500" +/-0.031" 177.2" +/-0.250" 4.000" 1.500" 238 lbs

Nine Tips on Extending the Life of your Drill Stem

  1. When using a new string of pipe make sure the Drive Chuck/Saver Sub is like new to prevent damage to the new threads. A Drive Chuck/Saver Sub that has worn threads can damage the new ones easily.
  2. Break-In the pipe threads on the first bore. This consists of lubing the threads (preferably with a copper flake lube such as Jet-Lube) making up the joint to full torque, breaking the joint and re-applying more lube. Repeat this process three times. This will ensure that the threads are burnished and will prevent galling and seizing.
  3. Make sure to maintain the alignment of the pipe in the ground and the pipe in the rig. This prevents side loading the threads and unnecessary wear and possible cross threading. Keeping the rig stake downs from moving is important.
  4. When making up the threads use slow rotation to reduce heat and prevent over running the thread shoulders.
  5. Always make up the joints to full torque. Having good vice jaw inserts is a must.
  6. Don't let the distance from the rig to the entry hole get too far. Lack of entry hole support will make it easy to buckle the pipe when thrusting to steer.
  7. Keep the initial entry angle as low as possible and smoothly transition to the desired depth.
  8. Never exceed the recommended max. bend radius (JT920 is max. of 6% pitch change per 6' pipe, less is better and will greatly extend the life of the pipe). Many operators tend to level out the bore too quickly from the entry hole or surface too quickly when exiting. This causes extra bending stress on the pipe and shorten the life substantially.
  9. Rotate the pipe regularly. This means moving the lead pipe to the end of the string continually. This prevents the first few pipes from seeing all of the futtage on pilot and pull back every time.